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Thread: Winterizing engines

  1. #31
    Track Day Star Plotts's Avatar
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    Never had an issue, so no thanks, I'm good.

  2. #32
    World SBK Champ Johnmark101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cano View Post
    If you start it occasionally make sure the oil is warming up fully (not just the coolant per the temp gauge) or you are doing more harm than good. The oil needs to warm up fully to operating temp (done best by actual riding) or it will not burn off the condensation that naturally forms. Even worse, a partial warm up and cool down will actually add more condensation to the oil. It is better to not start at all than to start and allow to run for just a short period. I had a friend who used to start his classic car every weekend and allowed it to run just until the thermostat opened up. He didn't believe my warnings until he changed his oil in the spring and it was a tan color with bubbles. Not good.
    I agree with not starting the bike during storage. If the bike is going to sit for an extended period it is best to change the oil before storing. Don't bother starting the bike up until you are ready to ride again. Even if it sits for several months better to just leave it alone.





    2013 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS......Sargent seat, R&G frame sliders / fork protectors / engine case covers, Powerlet, Osram Nightbreakers, Vesrah brake pads, Pazzo levers, Akrapovic full exhaust, Power commander 5, pair valve block off plates, modified air box, reflashed ECU, suspension built by Traxxion Dynamics.

    2015 Kawasaki ZX6R.....Puig screen, R&G frame sliders and fork protectors, GB Racing engine case covers, Carrozzeria forged wheels.

  3. #33
    Track Day Star Plotts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnmark101 View Post
    I agree with not starting the bike during storage. If the bike is going to sit for an extended period it is best to change the oil before storing. Don't bother starting the bike up until you are ready to ride again. Even if it sits for several months better to just leave it alone.
    I would disagree with that. Lack of usage is what causes gas to gum things up. Engines were made to run. I'm not sure how letting something sit in any way could be better than letting it run.

  4. #34
    AMA Superbike Champ Cano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plotts View Post
    I would disagree with that. Lack of usage is what causes gas to gum things up. Engines were made to run. I'm not sure how letting something sit in any way could be better than letting it run.
    The issue isn't simply letting it sit v. letting it run. If you let it run long enough to fully warm the oil up, then you will not experience any adverse issues with condensation. Problem is that is hard to do unless you are actually riding the bike which it did not appear you are doing per your initial post. If the oil is not fully warming up to operating temp, then it is certainly better to just let it sit rather than start it up every couple weeks for 10 minutes because that is not long enough for the oil to warm up if it is just sitting there idling in your driveway. If you are worried about the gas going bad, then add some fuel stabilizer and run the bike long enough to make sure the mix gets into the fuel lines and injectors.

    In my case it seems like a warm day will hit every 3-5 weeks or so over the winter, which gives me the chance to ride a good distance and fill up the tank with fresh gas, so I don't bother with stabilizer.

    At the end of the day, its your bike, so do what you want.

  5. #35
    World SBK Champ Johnmark101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plotts View Post
    I would disagree with that. Lack of usage is what causes gas to gum things up. Engines were made to run. I'm not sure how letting something sit in any way could be better than letting it run.
    I have to agree with Cano on this one. A quality fuel stabilizer will keep the fuel from going bad. Here is one of many articles on the subject of starting the bike during winter storage.

    https://www.lawabidingbiker.com/130/

    Additionally, carbon deposits trapped in the oil from combustion can etch aluminum parts when left sitting for prolonged periods. A fresh oil change before hibernation is a good idea.
    Last edited by Johnmark101; 11-15-2017 at 03:10 PM.





    2013 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ABS......Sargent seat, R&G frame sliders / fork protectors / engine case covers, Powerlet, Osram Nightbreakers, Vesrah brake pads, Pazzo levers, Akrapovic full exhaust, Power commander 5, pair valve block off plates, modified air box, reflashed ECU, suspension built by Traxxion Dynamics.

    2015 Kawasaki ZX6R.....Puig screen, R&G frame sliders and fork protectors, GB Racing engine case covers, Carrozzeria forged wheels.

  6. #36
    Deals Gap Junkie booger's Avatar
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    BUMP. Almost time for fuel stabilizer. Some may want to change out water wetter also.
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    Cant get enough of those crooked roads.

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    DOUG

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    Pole Slider no0ne's Avatar
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    The winters on Oahu hardly dip into the 60's, but even when I was back home I never winterized my bikes. I don't know if I was cheap or lazy, but I think I'd just toss in some SeaFoam and put it on a battery tender.

    I guess I also never had a bike for a full year until the naked 600rr and KLX 251 Cleaveland Steamer. Look at me now.. April will mark 3 years of owning the Shiver while in Hawaii.


    ...and it still hasn't hit 10k miles
    '82 Yamaha Razz(Wrecked)
    '82 Kawasaki KZ1100(Sold)
    '94 Yamaha FZR600(Wrecked)
    '07 Kawasaki Ninja 650r(Totaled into a semi)
    '94 Honda CBR600F2(Didn't wreck)
    '83 Honda CM450C(Repainted)
    '07 Kawasaki Z1000(Traded)
    '04 Suzuki DRZ400SM(Sold?)
    '07 Honda CBR600RR/CB600R(Wrecked 4x)
    '02 Honda Elite(Stolen)
    '09 Kawasaki KLX351SF(Sold)
    Bike #12: '15 Aprilia Shiver 750
    EJ


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