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Thread: BAB Racer to Cafe Racer

  1. #31
    Rc51 Whore BAlbers's Avatar
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    Honda RC51-Current
    2007 GSX-R750- Sold
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  2. #32
    MotoGP Star The Englishman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BAlbers View Post


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    I'll have to wait until I get of work shortly to see these, our works computers block youtube Vimeo and other stuff is OK, just youtube.

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    What are the videos about?
    Playing safe, is still playing!


  3. #33
    MotoGP Star The Englishman's Avatar
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    The first brake caliper has been striped, thoroughly cleaned and then reassembled:

    First of all, the piston seals were removed from the caliper body so that it could be thoroughly cleaned and inspected for any damage prior to reassembly. The seal grooves had some corrosion in the bottom of the grooves, which was carefully removed, so that the seals could seat correctly and not put too much pressure on the piston...this would most likely cause the brakes to drag as the piston would not be able to return easily.

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    The seals were carefully checked for damage and wear, the inner piston seal was in great shape and did not need replacing, however, the outer dust seal was in very poor shape as can be seen in the photos.

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    The dust seal was replaced ($7.66) and the seals were then installed back into the caliper body ready for re-assembly.

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    Next was the piston it's self, apart from a build up of brake dust and road grime and some light scratches, it was in fair condition and could be salvaged with a little effort. Firstly I cleaned everything with Simple Green to get the worst of the crap off. This revealed some light scratches from where the dust seal had failed and dirt and corrosion had set in. Once all the dirt was removed, I used a very fine Scotch Pad to remove the remaining residue and marks from the piston. Once I was happy with the piston, I used metal polish to polish out any remaining marks and buff up so that it would function correctly and not damage the seals during operation. These photos show from start to finish of this process.

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    All the moving/sliding parts were greased and the caliper was re-assembled ready for installation on the bike. The photos show a before and after view of the calipers.

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    The first caliper to be re-furbished was the rear caliper as it had a little more corrosion damage than the two front calipers...Now I just have to finish the fronts, however, the weather is not being very cooperative so far..

    Finishing the carbs is next on my list and then the forks and anti-dive valves..

    To be continued...
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    Last edited by The Englishman; 03-24-2013 at 05:40 PM.
    Playing safe, is still playing!


  4. #34
    MotoGP Star The Englishman's Avatar
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    The next stage is to remove the forks from the bike, then rebuild and rework them so that they work better than the originals.

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    The best thing to do would be buy emulators, but the budget won't allow for that at $160 plus S&H! There is another issue with this bike, the suspension has Air-Assist on the front and rear suspension.

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    This system is OK when it's in tip top condition, but it is difficult to regulate the air pressure due to temperature variations and as they get older, they don't hold the air pressure for long either. This rebuild will attempt to re-work the forks so that we do not need the air-assist, so there will be quite a lot of modifications. I removed the forks and air bridge pipe as can be seen in the photos.

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    The next job was to strip the forks ready for the re-build and to see which parts will need modification.

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    I already have the Anti-Dive units re-built, however, I'm not sure on their relationship with the other valving in the forks. There is a the normal damper tube which can be seen in the photo.

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    There is also an emulator type valve, which seems to be associated with the compression damping and anti-dive units, which can been seen in the photo.

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    I will need to do some research now to find out how this valve works and in fact, can it be modified to act as an emulator but still keep the anti-dive valves and capability. Most likely, I will have to isolate the anti-dive units by fitting a blanking plate and then convert the valving to a more modern system...As the budget won't allow me to just buy parts, I need to figure out if and how to modify the original parts...

    To be continued...
    Playing safe, is still playing!


  5. #35
    MotoGP Legend Danhor7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BAlbers View Post


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    Reped

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Englishman View Post
    The next stage is to remove the forks from the bike, then rebuild and rework them so that they work better than the originals.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	21802Click image for larger version. 

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    The best thing to do would be buy emulators, but the budget won't allow for that at $160 plus S&H! There is another issue with this bike, the suspension has Air-Assist on the front and rear suspension.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	21804Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	21805Click image for larger version. 

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    This system is OK when it's in tip top condition, but it is difficult to regulate the air pressure due to temperature variations and as they get older, they don't hold the air pressure for long either. This rebuild will attempt to re-work the forks so that we do not need the air-assist, so there will be quite a lot of modifications. I removed the forks and air bridge pipe as can be seen in the photos.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	74 
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ID:	21807Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	74 
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ID:	21808Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	71 
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ID:	21809

    The next job was to strip the forks ready for the re-build and to see which parts will need modification.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	99.jpg 
Views:	68 
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ID:	21810

    I already have the Anti-Dive units re-built, however, I'm not sure on their relationship with the other valving in the forks. There is a the normal damper tube which can be seen in the photo.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	538.jpg 
Views:	74 
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ID:	21811

    There is also an emulator type valve, which seems to be associated with the compression damping and anti-dive units, which can been seen in the photo.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	74 
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ID:	21812

    I will need to do some research now to find out how this valve works and in fact, can it be modified to act as an emulator but still keep the anti-dive valves and capability. Most likely, I will have to isolate the anti-dive units by fitting a blanking plate and then convert the valving to a more modern system...As the budget won't allow me to just buy parts, I need to figure out if and how to modify the original parts...

    To be continued...
    I'll say you've defiantly got the bike advantage at this point.

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    Nee

    - - - Updated - - -

    Nee

    - - - Updated - - -

    NEE
    Limitations can only be learned by exceeding them.


  6. #36
    Rc51 Whore BAlbers's Avatar
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    Thanks for the REp D!



    Honda RC51-Current
    2007 GSX-R750- Sold
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    1998 Yamaha Yzfr6- Sold
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  7. #37
    MotoGP Star The Englishman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danhor7 View Post
    Reped

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    I'll say you've defiantly got the bike advantage at this point.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Nee

    - - - Updated - - -

    Nee

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    NEE
    I think it's potentially a good bike, but it needs a lot of help, in particularly, the carbs, suspension and brakes. It also has 16" wheels front and rear, so good tires are an issue, there aren't any sport tires available..
    I haven't fired it up yet, so the engine might not be as strong as it could be even though the compression's were pretty good. Outlaws bike is pretty strong and so is Matt's and Matt's will have the 17" Buell wheels/tires and brakes. Yours will also have awesome brakes, 17" wheels/tires, so even 2ct's will make our tires look lame It will be interesting to see how the riders use their bikes advantages to win... can't wait, it'll be awesome
    Last edited by The Englishman; 04-04-2013 at 07:42 PM.
    Playing safe, is still playing!


  8. #38
    MotoGP Legend Danhor7's Avatar
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    I hereby dub thee; Knights Who Till Recently Say Ni
    Limitations can only be learned by exceeding them.


  9. #39
    MotoGP Star The Englishman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danhor7 View Post
    I hereby dub thee; Knights Who Till Recently Say Ni
    Playing safe, is still playing!


  10. #40
    MotoGP Star The Englishman's Avatar
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    There's not a whole lot of information anywhere on these forks, so I'm winging it!

    I dismantled the forks from the 600r so that the various components could be examined for their modification potential. The purpose of this exercise is to find a way to improve the performance of the forks, yet spend little to no money so that we can stay in budget...

    My first modification was to the springs, these springs are very soft and are multi-rate, as they use air pressure to vary the pre-load. I cut the springs down by removing the softer section of the spring and then made spacers so that the front end can be stiffened without the use of air pressure.

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    The suspension on the 600R consists of the following units; on the fork exterior, there is the AVDS unit (Auto Variable Damping System). On the inside of the fork unit, there is a fairly conventional damping rod and also a TCV (Traction Control Valve). These forks also have air-assist, whereby the air pressure can be adjusted to stiffen or soften the ride. The following photos show these components.

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    The next mod was to convert the TCV unit into a sort of Emulator, Emulator LOL The following photo shows the stock TCV unit.

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    The TCV was broken down into it's components so that I could work on how to modify the unit. The following photo shows the exploded view.

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    Once I had figured out how to make the modifications I needed to the TCV, I reassembled it with only the components I was going use, the following photo shows a stripped TCV, which is now ready for the final mods and a stock TCV for comparison.

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    The compression damping will be controlled by the valve pushing against the spring and the rebound damping will be controlled by the orifices in the valve. The following photo shows the actual valve.

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    The following two photos show the valve in it's open position and the closed/restricted position respectively.

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    When the valve is in it's closed or restricted position, the oil has to flow downwards through the restricted orifice, therefore the size of the orifice will regulate the rebound damping. When the brakes are applied or the machine hits a bump, the oil is forced upwards through the orifice, however, the valve is held in place by a spring which is adjustable to vary the amount of compression damping, i.e. the more pressure on the spring, the stiffer the compression damping. The orifice size is crucial to how this unit will work, so there will be some trial and error testing to discover the best setting. The valve will be modified so the orifice is about 30% of it's current area. The following photo show a top view of the valve open.

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    In order to adjust the rebound damping, small shims/washers will be placed under the valve stem shown in the photo, which when removed, will allow the orifice to get larger.

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    The spring perch on the stock TCV will be modified to allow the road spring to slide over the top of the unit instead of holding the TCV in place as it was stock. The following photos show the stock TCV unit and the road spring location holding the TCV in place.

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    To be continued... (Exceeded 15 photos)

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    I don't know what happened there, the photo showing in the attachment should be showing where the second photo of the valve is..sorry, can't seem to be able to edit it..
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    Playing safe, is still playing!


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